
Camino Francés: Gonzar to Palas De Rei - Stage 23
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Reading time: 9 minutes
Camino Francés: Gonzar to Palas De Rei - Stage 23
Posted: | Updated:
Reading time: 9 minutes

By: Simon Kemp, Editor
The Camino Francés continues from Gonzar, a small hamlet along the pilgrimage route, to Palas de Rei, a town with deep historical ties to medieval royalty and the Camino. This section of the journey takes walkers through rural landscapes, small villages, and historical sites, offering a mix of terrain and a few moderate elevation changes.
Historical Background
- Gonzar: A quiet village along the Camino, Gonzar has long served as a resting point for pilgrims. It is located near Castromaior, an ancient fortified settlement with remains dating back to the Iron Age. The village itself is small, with a few accommodations and a church that has welcomed travelers for centuries.
- Palas de Rei: The name of this town suggests a connection to royalty, with some historians linking it to a Visigothic palace that may have existed in the area during the 8th century. In medieval times, Palas de Rei was an important waypoint for pilgrims, offering shelter and supplies. Today, it is a lively town with restaurants, accommodations, and historical landmarks, including the Church of San Tirso.
The Camino Route
The walk from Gonzar to Palas de Rei is 28.8 km (17.9 miles) and follows a mix of woodland paths, country roads, and farmland trails. The terrain is varied, with some gentle ascents and descents.
- Gonzar to Ligonde (12.7 km): The trail begins with a stretch through rural landscapes, passing through Castromaior, where pilgrims can visit the remains of an ancient hillfort.
- The route continues to Ligonde, a village known for its medieval pilgrim hospital, which once hosted Emperor Charles I and his son Philip II.
- Ligonde to Eirexe (9.5 km): The path leads through small hamlets and farmland before reaching Eirexe, home to the Church of Santiago, which features a unique sculpture of the Apostle.
- Eirexe to Palas de Rei (6.6 km): The final stretch is a mix of woodland trails and open countryside, leading into Palas de Rei, where pilgrims find a range of services and accommodations.
The previous Camino Francés Section is Barbadelo to Gonzar .
Alternative Routes
While most pilgrims follow the traditional path, some opt for minor detours to explore Castromaior more thoroughly or take quieter side trails that avoid busier sections. The main route is well-marked and accessible, with moderate elevation changes that make it manageable for most walkers. This section of the Camino is long but not overly difficult, with plenty of opportunities to rest and take in the scenery. Pilgrims often find it to be a rewarding stage, offering a mix of historical sites, rural landscapes, and cultural landmarks
Route Description: Gonzar to Palas De Rei
The Gonzar to Palas de Rei stage of the Camino Francés , a distance of 28.8 km, carries you from Gonzar through a series of rural landscapes and small villages to the historical town of Ligonde.
The journey then continues through peaceful pastoral landscapes to the village of Eirexe, home to the Church of Santiago. The stage concludes with a pleasant walk to the bustling town of Palas de Rei. Despite being one of the longer stages, it offers a manageable walking experience with moderate elevation changes and several rest stops.
Gonzar to Palas De Rei Route Map
A. Detailed Breakdown of the Route
- Gonzar to Ligonde (12.7 km) Setting off from the quiet hamlet of Gonzar, you start by traversing serene rural landscapes dotted with small villages. These traditional hamlets will give you an authentic taste of the local Galician culture and lifestyle. The first leg of your journey culminates in the historical town of Ligonde, famed for its ancient pilgrim hospital, marking the town’s deep ties with the Camino.
- Ligonde to Eirexe (9.5 km) The journey from Ligonde leads you through tranquil, pastoral landscapes peppered with charming small hamlets. This stretch provides an enjoyable walk with ample opportunities for reflection and admiration of the beautiful natural surroundings. The destination for this part is the village of Eirexe. Here, you’ll find the Church of Santiago, which houses a unique sculpture of the Apostle, a gem for art and history enthusiasts.
- Eirexe to Palas de Rei (6.6 km) The final stretch of this stage is a pleasant walk through more rural landscapes. This section offers a gentle transition from the peaceful countryside to the more lively atmosphere of Palas de Rei, a sizable town that serves as your endpoint for this day.
B. Terrain and Elevation
The terrain for this stage is a diverse mix of rural roads, woodland trails, and farmland paths, providing a varied and interesting walking experience. While there are a few ascents and descents to navigate, the overall elevation changes are moderate, making this stage accessible for most pilgrims.
C. Points of Interest
- Ligonde: Noted for its ancient pilgrim hospital, Ligonde gives a testament to the history of the Camino.
- Eirexe: Eirexe is particularly notable for the Church of Santiago, where you can view a unique and captivating sculpture of the Apostle.
D. Potential Challenges
This stage of the Camino Francés is quite long, covering a total distance of 28.8 km. It may pose physical challenges for some pilgrims, particularly those who are not accustomed to such distances. It’s important to maintain a comfortable pace, ensure regular rest breaks, and hydrate frequently to manage this challenge effectively.
E. Rest Stops
There are several key rest stops on this stage, including the towns of Ligonde and Eirexe, which provide facilities such as eateries and accommodation options. The endpoint of this stage, Palas de Rei, although bustling, offers a range of services for pilgrims, providing an ideal place to rest and recharge for the next day’s journey.

Departure point: Gonzar
Gonzar, a hidden gem is situated along the Camino Francés pilgrimage route, awaits with its captivating allure and timeless charm. Gonzar stands as a welcoming sanctuary for pilgrims on their sacred journey along the Camino Francés. Its position offers respite and a chance to connect with fellow pilgrims on the path.
Location and History
Set against a backdrop of rolling hills, verdant landscapes, and meandering streams, Gonzar boasts a serene environment that invites pilgrims to connect with nature’s tranquility.
Explore Gonzar’s architectural treasures, such as the ancient Church of San Nicolás, a testament to the town’s spiritual heritage. Dive into cultural events that celebrate the vibrancy of the community and its profound ties to the Camino.
Camino-related Services
Gonzar provides a wealth of resources, such as information centers and guidebooks, offering pilgrims valuable guidance and assistance for a fulfilling Camino experience.
Destination: Palas de Rai
Walking the Camino Frances pilgrimage is a unique experience that takes you through some of the most breathtaking landscapes and charming towns in Spain. Among these, Palas De Rei, a town in the province of Lugo, stands out for its rich history and welcoming atmosphere.
History
Palas De Rei has been welcoming pilgrims for centuries. Its roots can be traced back to the Roman period, making it a treasure trove for history lovers. A visit to the Church of San Tirso, with its stunning Romanesque architecture, is a must for anyone passing through the town.
The Journey through Palas De Rei
Your journey from Portomarin to Palas De Rei is one of the most memorable parts of the pilgrimage. The path takes you through rolling green landscapes, rustic farmhouses, and eucalyptus-scented woodlands. It’s a tranquil and refreshing experience that mirrors the spiritual essence of the Camino.
Accommodation Options
Palas De Rei offers a variety of accommodation options catering to every budget. Albergues, which are dormitory-style hostels, are the most common choice for pilgrims. For those desiring more comfort, there are hotels and rural houses available. The hospitality in Palas De Rei is remarkable, with locals going out of their way to make you feel welcome.
Gastronomy
For the food lovers, Galician cuisine is a highlight of the Camino Frances. Palas De Rei offers numerous local eateries that serve traditional dishes like ‘pulpo a la gallega’ (Galician-style octopus) and ’empanada gallega’ (Galician pie). The town is also known for its local cheese called ‘queso de tetilla’, which is a must-try.
Activities in Palas De Rei
Besides walking the Camino, Palas De Rei offers a variety of activities. You can take a leisurely stroll around the town, visit the local markets, or take part in local festivals and events if your visit aligns with them. The town is full of life and activity, providing plenty of opportunities to immerse in the local culture.
Camino Related Services
Palas De Rei is particularly well-equipped for Camino pilgrims. Recognizing the unique needs of those on this spiritual journey, the town offers a variety of services. Here, you’ll find an excellent Pilgrim’s Reception Centre that offers detailed information about the Camino, route maps, and stamping of the Pilgrim’s Passport.
In addition, there are multiple luggage transfer services available, freeing you from carrying your bags while you walk. For the aching muscles, consider treating yourself to a massage or physiotherapy session at one of the local wellness centres. Pilgrims who wish to send postcards or packages back home can make use of the reliable postal service in town.
If you’re in need of walking gear, footwear or Camino-specific items, there are several stores selling these. Palas De Rei is not only a stop on the Camino, but it also serves as a support hub for the pilgrims, ensuring they have everything they need to continue their journey.
Preparation Tips
As you prepare for your journey through Palas De Rei, remember to pack suitable clothing for the weather, which can be quite changeable. Also, ensure you have sturdy footwear for the terrain, which is a mix of paved roads, dirt paths, and occasional rough patches. Preparation is key to enjoy this part of the Camino to its fullest.
Palas De Rei, with its charming ambiance, rich history, and warm hospitality, stands as a gem on the Camino Frances. Whether you’re there for the pilgrimage or just to soak in the culture, the town is sure to leave you with beautiful memories and perhaps a longing to return. As you consider walking the Camino Frances, remember that Palas De Rei is not just a stopover; it’s a highlight.
The next Camino Francés Section is Palas De Rei to Ribadiso de Baixo .