The Camino Francés continues its journey from Burgos to Hornillos del Camino, a small village marking the entrance to the vast Meseta. This stage is around 21 kilometers (approximately 13 miles) in length and offers a striking contrast between urban landscapes and the open, agricultural plains that define central Spain.

Historical Background

• Burgos: Founded in 884 AD as a defensive stronghold, Burgos became a major medieval center of trade and pilgrimage. It is home to the Burgos Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its Gothic architecture and intricate sculptures. The city also played a pivotal role in Spanish history, serving as the capital of Castilla for centuries and as the final resting place of El Cid, Spain’s legendary warrior.
• Hornillos del Camino: This small village has been a traditional stopping point for pilgrims since the Middle Ages. Its Church of San Román, dating back to the 16th century, reflects the town’s deep connection to the Camino. Hornillos del Camino is one of the first settlements on the Meseta, a high plateau known for its expansive wheat fields and solitude.

The Camino Route

The journey from Burgos to Hornillos del Camino spans approximately 21 km and is characterized by:

• A gradual transition from the urban environment of Burgos into the rural countryside.
• A scenic stretch along the Arlanzón River, passing through Villalbilla before reaching Tardajos, a village known for its 16th-century Church of La Asunción.
• A short climb leading to Rabé de las Calzadas, a peaceful village with a historic pilgrim’s hospital and the Church of Santa Marina, featuring a Romanesque entrance.
• The first taste of the Meseta, as the trail opens into vast wheat fields with little shade, offering a meditative walking experience.
• A descent into Hornillos del Camino, where the village’s single winding street and traditional stone houses welcome pilgrims.

This stage is considered moderately easy, with a mix of urban paths, country roads, and dirt trails. Pilgrims often find it to be a reflective section of the Camino, marking the transition into the Meseta’s open landscapes.

Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino Route Map

Route Description

A. Detailed Breakdown of the Route

1. Burgos to Tardajos (11 km) Exiting Burgos, you’ll pass through a park and alongside the river, eventually reaching Villalbilla. From there, continue along farm tracks and cross the river Arlanzón to arrive at Tardajos. This rural village, home to about 800 residents, is known for its 16th-century church, Iglesia de la Asunción, featuring an ornate Baroque retablo (altarpiece).
2. Tardajos to Rabé de las Calzadas (2 km) An easy, short walk takes you from Tardajos to Rabé de las Calzadas. The village is a peaceful place to rest and soak in some history. The historic pilgrim’s hospital, now a private residence, is a notable building, and the Church of Santa Marina is worth a visit for its Romanesque entrance and lovely interior.
3. Rabé de las Calzadas to Hornillos del Camino (8 km) Leaving Rabé, the terrain becomes open and flat, offering the first taste of the Meseta. The path unwinds through vast wheat fields until you reach a ridge overlooking Hornillos del Camino. Nestled in a shallow valley, this medieval village welcomes pilgrims with its rustic charm and simple beauty.

B. Terrain and Elevation

The terrain transitions from urban sidewalks to a pedestrian bridge, paved country roads, and finally, well-trodden dirt paths. After Rabé de las Calzadas, the route presents a slight climb onto the plateau of the Meseta, followed by a descent into Hornillos del Camino. Despite the gentle undulation, the overall trail is considered flat and manageable.

C. Points of Interest

1. Iglesia de la Asunción, Tardajos: This 16th-century church exhibits a stunning Baroque retablo and beautifully preserved architecture, providing a serene spot for contemplation.
2. Meseta landscapes: The Meseta, often regarded as a meditative stage of the Camino, impresses with its vast open landscapes, golden wheat fields, and unspoiled horizons. A perfect backdrop for introspective walking.
3. Hornillos del Camino: This village retains its medieval layout and traditional charm. Its single winding street, stone houses, and the Church of San Román reflect the simple rural life of Spain.

D. Potential Challenges

The primary challenge on this stage may be the weather. The openness of the Meseta offers little shade on sunny days, making sun protection essential. On windy days, the area can also become quite exposed. Ensuring you have water and sunblock, as well as a hat or other coverings, is key to staying safe and comfortable.

E. Rest Stops

Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas offer options for refreshments, with bars and small shops available. Once in Hornillos del Camino, although a small village, you’ll find a couple of albergues to rest for the night. The local bar also provides a space to relax and replenish with typical Spanish fare.

This stage is about embracing the openness of the Meseta, finding beauty in its vastness, and continuing the journey at your own pace. Buen camino!

Departure Point: Burgos

As you travelled from San Juan de Ortega to Burgos, you will have noticed town in northern Spain that seamlessly weaves together a blend of history, awe-inspiring architecture, and a vibrant cultural scene.

Location and History

Situated in the province of Burgos, this town enjoys a strategic location along the legendary Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. Situated on the banks of the serene Arlanzón River, Burgos has long been a hub of cultural and commercial activity. With a history dating back to the Middle Ages, Burgos was once the capital of the influential Kingdom of Castile.

The heart of Burgos lies within its Ciudad Vieja, the historic center that has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. As you wander through its narrow, winding streets, you’ll be transported back in time, surrounded by architectural wonders that bear witness to the town’s illustrious past.

Points of Interest

Burgos boasts an array of captivating points of interest that showcase its rich cultural and historical heritage. The Burgos Cathedral, an imposing Gothic masterpiece, commands attention with its soaring spires and intricate details. Step inside to marvel at its stunning stained glass windows, majestic vaulted ceilings, and remarkable chapels. The Chapel of the Constable, adorned with magnificent sculptures and ornate decorations, is a true gem within the cathedral.

A visit to the Cartuja de Miraflores is a journey into serenity and artistic splendor. This Carthusian monastery, situated in a peaceful setting just outside the town, is renowned for its Gothic architecture. Inside, you’ll discover the exquisite beauty of the monastery’s altarpiece, sculpted by the skilled hands of Gil de Siloé, a renowned Renaissance artist.

Cultural Delights

Burgos is a cultural haven, offering an array of delights for visitors to enjoy. The town comes alive during the Festival de Burgos, an annual celebration that showcases the best of music, dance, and theater. From classical concerts to contemporary performances, the festival captivates audiences with its diverse program. Witness captivating performances and experience the creative spirit that permeates the town.

To delve into the depths of human history, a visit to the Museum of Human Evolution is a must. Housed in a modern architectural marvel, the museum takes you on a captivating journey through time, tracing the origins and development of humanity. Encounter ancient fossils, interactive exhibits, and thought-provoking displays that shed light on our shared past.

Gastronomic Delicacies

Burgos is a culinary haven, tempting food lovers with its gastronomic delights. Sample the town’s renowned morcilla, a flavorful blood sausage made with rice, onions, and spices. Sink your teeth into succulent roast lamb, a specialty of the region, and savor the delightful flavors that define traditional Castilian cuisine. Complement your meal with a glass of renowned Ribera del Duero wine, produced from the vineyards that dot the surrounding countryside.

Vibrant Atmosphere

Burgos exudes a vibrant atmosphere, where history merges seamlessly with contemporary life. The Plaza Mayor, the heart of the town, serves as a central meeting point for locals and visitors alike. Explore the lively streets and alleys that radiate from the plaza, where you’ll discover charming boutiques, quaint cafes, and bustling markets. The authentic ambiance of Burgos is where warm smiles and friendly conversations await.

Conclusion

Burgos, with its storied history, architecture, vibrant cultural scene, and delectable cuisine, beckons you to embark on an unforgettable journey. Delve into the wonders of the Burgos Cathedral, admire the artistic flair of the town’s festivals, tantalize your taste buds with traditional flavors, and embrace the lively atmosphere that permeates every corner. Burgos promises an experience that will leave an indelible mark on your soul and create memories that will last a lifetime.

Destination: Hornillos del Camino

Welcome to the serene and picturesque town of Hornillos del Camino, situated along the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route in northern Spain.

Location and History: Hornillos del Camino

Situated in the province of Burgos, Hornillos del Camino occupies a significant position as a resting point for pilgrims embarking on the Camino de Santiago. With a history deeply rooted in the ancient pilgrimage tradition, this town has played a vital role in providing essential services to weary travelers for centuries.

Tranquil Ambience

Hornillos del Camino emanates a sense of tranquility and serenity, enveloping visitors in a peaceful ambiance. Surrounded by the undulating hills and sweeping vistas of Castilla y León, this idyllic town offers a perfect respite from the bustling world. The gentle whispers of the wind and the soft rustling of the nearby fields create a soothing backdrop for contemplation and relaxation.

Architectural Gems

Hornillos del Camino showcases architectural gems that reflect its historical and cultural significance. The Iglesia de San Román, a Romanesque church dating back to the 13th century, stands proudly as a testament to the town’s rich heritage. Its robust stone walls, graceful arches, and intricate detailing evoke a sense of awe and wonder. Step inside to admire the timeless beauty and experience a moment of quiet reverence.

Pilgrim Hospitality

Hornillos del Camino embraces pilgrims with open arms, offering warm hospitality and essential services along their sacred journey. Albergues (hostels) provide pilgrims with comfortable accommodations, a place to rest their weary bodies, and an opportunity to forge connections with fellow travelers. The local community extends a helping hand, offering guidance, support, and a sense of camaraderie to those undertaking the pilgrimage.

Natural Beauty

Be amazed at natural beauty that surrounds Hornillos del Camino. Vast open fields stretch as far as the eye can see, kissed by the golden rays of the sun. The gentle rolling hills and the expansive skies create a harmonious backdrop that invites contemplation and inner reflection. This serene landscape serves as a reminder of the interconnectedness between nature and the spiritual journey of the pilgrim.

Local Cuisine

Savor the flavors of traditional Castilian cuisine in Hornillos del Camino. Indulge in a hearty serving of lechazo asado, succulent roast suckling lamb, cooked to perfection and infused with rich flavors. Treat your taste buds to the robust and savory morcilla de Burgos, a blood sausage made with a unique blend of spices. And don’t miss the opportunity to sample the delicate and creamy queso de Burgos, a soft white cheese that pairs perfectly with the local bread.

The next stage of the Camino Francés is from Hornillos Del Camino to Castrojeriz.

Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino [Video]